La Locanda del Capitano

Situated in the heart of Montone, just 50 metres from the stunning piazza, La Locanda del Capitano nestles within one of Italy’s most enchanting medieval villages. With its narrow cobblestone streets, historic churches, and panoramic views of the Umbrian countryside, Montone is a place that draws visitors from around the globe. Over the past 17 years, I’ve visited this village dozens (if not hundreds) of times, sometimes twice in a single day. Such is its charm and breathtaking beauty.

Montone itself is a masterpiece of Italian heritage. Officially recognised as one of Italy’s "Borghi più belli d’Italia" (Most Beautiful Villages), it offers a quintessential hilltop town experience. The village is steeped in history, with its origins tracing back to the Etruscan and Roman periods. Its medieval walls and towers remain remarkably intact, creating an atmosphere of timeless serenity. The village square, Piazza Fortebraccio, serves as the beating heart of Montone. Here, locals gather to socialise, and visitors can sip espresso under the Umbrian sun while admiring views of the surrounding countryside. Festivals like the Donazione della Santa Spina bring the village’s history to life, with processions, music, and reenactments that capture the spirit of Montone’s vibrant past.

La Locanda del Capitano is the village’s culinary destination and a hub of cultural intrigue. Housed in a 13th-century building, it once served as the family residence of the famed Condottiero Braccio Fortebraccio, known as the "Captain of Fortune." A key figure in Italy’s medieval military history, Fortebraccio’s legacy is honoured in the restaurant’s name, with “Il Capitano” paying homage to the captain himself.

More than just a restaurant, La Locanda del Capitano doubles as a boutique hotel. Its architecture reflects its medieval roots, with stone walls, wooden beams, and antique furnishings creating a warm, timeless ambiance. The ten guest rooms are individually designed, blending antique family heirlooms with finely crafted reproductions by local artisans. Modern amenities are seamlessly integrated, ensuring a perfect balance of historical charm and contemporary comfort.

Chef and proprietor Giancarlo Polito presides over both the kitchen and the front of house, particularly during the quieter winter months. His genuine passion for Umbria and its produce is evident in his demeanour and his dishes. A hunter himself, Giancarlo’s respect for local ingredients translates into a culinary philosophy that values seasonality and authenticity. His love for his craft is palpable, both in his words and on the plate.

The tasting menu began with a dish showcasing trout sourced from the pristine waters of the Nera River, so clean it’s said you can drink directly from it. The trout was paired with caviar, setting a high standard for the courses to follow. It was accompanied by a Conte Vistarino Cépage Pinot Nero, a blanc de noir made in the traditional Champagne method, with 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. Floral with citrus notes and a hint of pastry, likely from its 30 months on lees, the wine complemented the dish beautifully.

Next came Giancarlo’s inventive take on a maritozzo, a traditional sweet bun. Departing from the usual whipped cream filling, his version was stuffed with savoury meat, playing with the balance between sweet and savoury to perfect effect.

A highlight was his signature dish, inspired by the quintessentially British habit of ordering a cappuccino after dinner. Italians, famously, would never have a milky coffee after 11 a.m., making this practice a source of gentle amusement. Giancarlo’s creative twist brought this humour to the table with a parmesan and truffle reinterpretation. The “cappuccino” featured a savoury meringue topped with slices of fresh truffle, replacing the traditional cocoa powder. Beneath the meringue lay a silky parmesan soup, its richness punctuated by quail egg yolks. This dish embodied humour, artistry, and was out of this world tasty. It easily made it into my top five dishes of 2024.

Giancarlo’s love for raw ingredients was shown in a dish celebrating the forest floor. Thinly sliced roe deer, cold-cured gravadlax-style with a selection of spices, was accompanied by small mushrooms that added texture and uniqueness. Served under a dome of smoke, adding theatre, the dish was infused with an aromatic seasoning that enhanced its earthy flavours. A single anise seed provided a surprising burst of flavour, transforming the dish into an experience of playful sophistication.

No Italian tasting menu would be complete without pasta. Here it arrived as delicate cappellacci filled with wood pigeon. Served with two sauces — a pecorino di fossa sauce with a hint of sweetness and a deep, rich pigeon jus — the dish was as intricate as it was satisfying. Onion jam topped select pieces, showcasing Giancarlo’s mastery of balancing flavours and textures.

The main course, lamb paired with raw celery, was a surprising delight. Though I typically avoid raw celery, its crunch complemented the tender lamb beautifully. Topped with a cream of potatoes and orange, the dish demonstrated Giancarlo’s inventiveness. Paired with Montefalco Sagrantino Passito 2017 from Terre La Custodia, a local sweet red wine, the combination brought out the lamb’s natural sweetness while adding depth and richness. The wine’s restrained sweetness made it a perfect match.

Dessert was a decadent square of chocolate tart with salted caramel, chilli, and ganache. Rich and indulgent, it was everything a chocolate dessert should be: bold, satisfying, and utterly delicious. My wife would have been in heaven had she been with me. Instead, I took my rather fastidious best friend, who, with relief from me, loved the whole meal.

La Locanda del Capitano is an ideal base for guests seeking to immerse themselves in the cultural and natural beauty of Umbria. The allure of this part of Italy keeps me returning multiple times a year. Montone, to me, is the quintessential Italian hilltop town — stunningly beautiful, offering far-reaching views, a wonderful piazza, and, of course, La Locanda del Capitano. Rooms are reasonably priced at €110-140 for a double, just 50 metres from the piazza.

The hotel offers various activities, including:

• Wine and Olive Oil Tours: Guests can visit local wineries and olive mills to sample and learn about regional products.
• Cooking Classes: Under Chef Giancarlo Polito’s guidance, guests can participate in hands-on lessons to uncover the secrets of Umbrian cuisine.
• Outdoor Activities: The surrounding countryside offers opportunities for hiking, cycling, and horseback riding, allowing guests to experience Umbria’s landscapes firsthand.

The village’s strategic location makes it convenient for exploring nearby Umbrian towns such as Città di Castello, Perugia, Assisi, and Gubbio, each rich in cultural and historical attractions. This region’s authenticity and rural charm give it a true sense of place, unspoiled by mass tourism. Every friend I have recommended to visit has loved the village — I hope you will too.

For more information, visit www.ilcapitano.com