Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs 2014 

When Bruno Paillard founded his eponymous Champagne house in 1981, his vision was clear: to make a Champagne of purity, reflecting the finest expression of its terroir. I first visited the estate 10 years ago and fell in love with this purity then.

At just 27 years old, Bruno, already a seasoned broker in the Champagne trade, set out to create his own label. With no vineyards of his own, he rented a small facility and sourced grapes from growers he trusted implicitly. From the very beginning, his philosophy was new and fresh, in an industry, full of tradition. Perhaps his finest decision was to print disgorgement dates on bottles, a practice that prioritised transparency and is now widely adopted and appreciated by us Champagne loving writers and consumers. This practice, informs consumers about when the wine was released from the lees, giving a better appreciation of its maturity.

In 1994, the house made a significant leap forward by purchasing its first vineyards, three hectares of Grand Cru vines in Oger, nestled in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. This milestone was partially financed through the sale of a cherished classic car, a difficult but ultimately rewarding decision. During my visit ten years ago, I arrived in my own classic car, and Bruno, recognising our shared enthusiasm, gave me a tour of the vineyards in his stunning Citroën DS convertible. He graciously offered me the use of his private driveway in the centre of Reims, a gesture that brought immense relief, as parking my classic is, thankfully, my only source of anxiety.

Over time, Bruno expanded the estate to 32 hectares, with 12 classified as Grand Cru. These prized plots are managed with sustainable practices and a focus on biodiversity, and form the backbone of the house’s wines today. Increasing the vineyard holdings has been a wise investment with land prices for vineyards, prohibitively high for new entrants to the business now.

Bruno’s daughter, Alice, joined the house in 2007, ushering in a new chapter for this family-owned business. With a shared passion for the art of winemaking, Alice has become a custodian of her father’s legacy, ensuring that the values of authenticity, innovation, and respect for the land remain central to the brand.

The Blanc de Blancs 2014, made from Chardonnay, is sourced exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards in Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. These villages, nestled in the chalky soils of the Côte des Blancs, are known for producing grapes with finesse and complexity. Located south of Épernay, this narrow strip of vineyards stretches over approximately 20 kilometres and includes some of Champagne’s most iconic Grand Cru villages.

The 2014 growing season was marked by contrasts. The year began with a relatively mild winter, which led to an early bud break. Spring brought favourable conditions, allowing for even and healthy development of the vines. However, this early start set the stage for challenges later in the season.

The summer months were cooler and wetter than usual, with July and August bringing above-average rainfall. These conditions increased the risk of fungal diseases like mildew and botrytis, requiring careful vineyard management. Despite the challenges, many growers in the Côte des Blancs were able to preserve the health of their vines through meticulous management.

The season took a dramatic turn for the better in September, with dry, sunny weather providing the perfect conditions for ripening. This extended period of warmth and sunlight allowed the grapes to develop full phenolic ripeness while retaining their characteristic acidity. For Chardonnay, this balance of ripeness and freshness was particularly beneficial, leading to wines with both richness and vibrancy.

Harvest began slightly later than in previous years, taking advantage of the excellent weather in early autumn. The grapes from Oger and the surrounding Grand Cru villages were picked at optimal maturity, showcasing the hallmark qualities of the Côte des Blancs: finesse, minerality, and a crisp, citrus-driven profile.

Only the first pressing of the Chardonnay grapes was used for this Blanc de Blancs. About 25% was vinified in small oak barrels, imparting subtle vanilla and wood nuances while enhancing the wine's texture

The wine then spends eight years ageing on its lees in the cellars, contributing to its depth and complexity. After disgorgement, it was left to rest for 18 months to ensure complete harmony before release. With an Extra Brut dosage of just 3g/l, this Champagne offers precision and vibrancy, allowing the purity of the fruit and the minerality of the terroir to shine.

In the glass, the Blanc de Blancs 2014 has a brilliant pale gold hue, its effervescence fine and persistent. The nose offers a herbaceous hint, complemented by stone fruits and a delicate salinity. As the wine opens, notes of citrus and pastries come to the fore, with a gentle evolution towards dried fruit and toasted almonds.

The palate is smooth and enveloping, with flavours of citrus, apricot, and brioche layered over a saline backbone. The texture is beautiful, almost buttery, yet the wine remains vibrant, finishing with a bright, zesty lift.

Alice has dedicated herself to upholding the high standards established by her father, while also ensuring that each cuvée evolves to suit modern tastes. Her leadership shines through in the ongoing acclaim for the house’s wines, which consistently reward patience. These Champagnes are never rushed to market; the process here is intentionally slow, with wines crafted to age before release and to continue evolving long after purchase. My personal recommendation? Buy a case of 12 and savour one bottle each year to fully appreciate its remarkable journey.

The Blanc de Blancs 2014 with its fresh, citrus-driven profile makes it an ideal match for seafood, such as oysters, langoustines, or scallops, while its richness and structure allow it to complement more indulgent dishes like truffle risotto or poultry with creamy sauces. As an aperitif, it sets the tone for celebrations.

In conclusion, this Champagne perfectly embodies Bruno's unwavering dedication to quality and Alice's innovative approach to modern tastes. It is available from Hedonism at £90