Domaine Evremond - Kent's Answer To Champagne

Domaine Evremond, the result of a unique collaboration between Champagne Taittinger, historic wine merchant Hatch Mansfield, and close friends, has reached a significant milestone with the official opening of its winery in Chilham, Kent. The event, attended by Her Royal Highness The Duchess of Edinburgh, marks a pivotal moment for English sparkling wine, and it’s a development I’ve followed with particular interest. As a former sommelier and wine merchant in Kent, I grew up familiar with local vineyards, but I had little enthusiasm for the often unbalanced, chalky, and acidic wines produced in the region at that time.

Fast forward to today, and it’s remarkable to witness the transformation of the local landscape. Driving or cycling through the countryside now offers views of thriving vineyards, either well-established or newly planted. Thirty years ago, the thought of a world-class wine region emerging here would have seemed far-fetched. Back then, Reims in France was the closest option for a serious wine visit. Now, that experience is right on my doorstep, with an impressive variety of options to explore.

Launched in 2015, this project is the first of its kind - a major Champagne house investing in the UK to produce premium English sparkling wine. Domaine Evremond’s vision is ambitious: to craft wines that stand alongside the finest, rooted in Champagne’s traditions but proudly reflecting an English identity. For me, this is a testament to the growing reputation of Kent and the broader south-east as a significant force in the winemaking world. I look forward to the day when French-registered cars are seen navigating Kent’s country lanes, stopping off for lunch and tasting what could become Champagne’s greatest rival.

The journey to this point has involved meticulous planning, collaboration, and discussion. In 2015, the first land was acquired from a long-established Kent fruit-growing family. The site, chosen for its ideal chalky terroir, is perfectly suited for the classic Champagne grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. By 2017, the first vines were planted, and the inaugural small harvest took place in 2019.

At the official opening ceremony, The Duchess of Edinburgh unveiled a commemorative plaque marking the inauguration of the winery, which sits in the heart of Kent. Champagne Taittinger’s President, Vitalie Taittinger, and Domaine Evremond co-founders Patrick McGrath MW and Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger welcomed guests, including local dignitaries, to the event. During the celebrations, guests were treated to the first taste of Domaine Evremond’s Classic Cuvée, set to be released in spring 2025, when the cellar door will officially open to the public.

Reflecting on the decade-long journey, Patrick McGrath MW commented, “Domaine Evremond has been more than 10 years in the making. It has been an incredible and exciting journey for all the team, and the driving force throughout has always been that of friendship.”

Vitalie Taittinger echoed these sentiments, saying, “I feel blessed to have inherited this amazing adventure from my father, along with the friendship at its core. We wouldn’t be where we are today without Patrick’s hard work in bringing the vision of Domaine Evremond to life, weaving together the layers of Anglo-French history and friendship that underpin this project.”

The winery itself has a strong focus on sustainability. Located in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Domaine Evremond was designed to harmonise with its surroundings while upholding the highest standards of environmental responsibility. Instead of building upwards, the winery has been constructed below ground. The upper level is dedicated to visitor experiences, while beneath, a state-of-the-art winery operates, and further below, cellars maintain a constant temperature, designed to hold over a million bottles. It was here that I had the chance to hear Taittinger’s Chef de Cave, Alexandre Ponnavoy, explain how the winemaking process closely mirrors that of Champagne.

The first significant harvest took place in 2020, followed by bottling in 2021. Now, with the winery officially open, the spotlight is on the release of the Classic Cuvée in the spring of 2025. Having tasted the wine just a few days after bottling, I can confidently say it shows great promise. Fresh, well-structured, and elegant, the wine is still evolving in the bottle, so I will hold off on providing formal tasting notes until it’s had more time to mature.

It was also fascinating to hear from Christelle Rinville, Taittinger’s Vineyard Director, who oversees all aspects of viticulture. She explained how each plot has been carefully selected to match the specific grape varieties planted there, considering soil type, drainage, and microclimate to ensure the vines thrive.

Viticulture, at its core, is farming, and the team has wisely retained the services of Mark Gaskain, a highly knowledgeable expert on the land and climate. Mark, who sold the land to Domaine Evremond, owns one of the UK’s largest fruit farms, making him the perfect candidate to manage the vineyard. Growing vines requires a different skill set from growing fruit trees, and Mark has been undergoing ongoing training with Christelle to master the nuances of viticulture. From vine training and canopy management to pruning techniques and sustainability practices, the learning curve has been steep but essential.

The results speak for themselves, and I am confident that Domaine Evremond will soon be recognised globally for its exceptional wines, as its vineyards and stock continue to mature.