Donnafugata
Donnafugata is one of Sicily’s most revered wineries. Established in 1983 by Giacomo Rallo and Gabriella Anca Rallo, the winery draws from over 170 years of family history in winemaking. Now under the stewardship of their children, Antonio and José, Donnafugata continues to champion Sicily’s extraordinary terroir, making wines that capture the island's unique essence and character.
Josè was honored in the 2024 Women in Wine & Spirits Awards (WINWSA) as one of the prize winners. Recognised in the Vision Award for Sustainability category, Josés’ accolade highlights her dedication to innovation and sustainable practices, which the company takes very seriously.
I had the privilege of dining with Antonio Rallo and his wife, Barbara Pezzano, in the Renoir Room at Scott’s of Mayfair. This space, intimate and opulent, offers a rare ambiance that elevates any occasion. The room is adorned with original artwork, including a Renoir, a detail that sets a tone of refined exclusivity. Even the floor commands attention, its jade green mosaic exuding a striking elegance. The meticulous design of the space makes it clear why large bags are not permitted; every detail is curated to preserve the room's pristine aesthetic.
The dinner was carefully curated, with dishes thoughtfully paired to complement Donnafugata’s wines. The guest list was equally considered, featuring an inspiring mix of wine book authors, educators, and commentators. Conversations flowed as freely as the wine, creating a vibrant exchange of ideas. As someone less familiar with Sicilian wines, I relished the opportunity to listen, learn, and absorb the wealth of knowledge shared around the table.
Before the meal, Antonio gave us insights into the estate and Sicily’s viticultural landscape. One particular detail struck me - Donnafugata maintains 40 kilometers of dry stone walls, all cared for by hand. This must be such a labour intensive practice, but nods to the depth of tradition embedded in Sicilian winemaking in Pantelleria.
Antonio also highlighted the island’s staggering biodiversity. Sicily is home to over 70 grape varieties, introduced and grown over its centuries-long winemaking history. Remarkably, not all these varieties have been formally identified. Antonio shared an anecdote about discovering a lone vine of an unidentified variety in their vineyards. Cuttings were carefully propagated and sent to a vine nursery as part of a collaborative effort with other wineries to revive and study these ancient vines. For wine lovers, such efforts spark excitement, each rediscovered variety adds another layer to Sicily’s offering and something new to discover.
Despite this abundance, Donnafugata approaches winemaking with precision, selecting only 10 indigenous varieties for their releases. The focus remains on crafting wines that are not just unique but fundamentally compelling and flavourful.
International grape varieties are grown at Contessa Entellina, but at the estates in Vittoria, Randazzo (Etna) and Pantelleria, only and exclusively local varieties are used, respectively: Frappato and Nero d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, and Zibibbo. An important example of blending with international grape varieties is there Mille e una Notte, iconic red wine that is composed of Nero d’Avola, Petit Verdot and Syrah.
Of course, viticulture in Sicily is not without its challenges. Antonio spoke candidly about the difficulties posed by disease, particularly with Nero d’Avola, one of the island’s signature grapes. Yields have plummeted from 10 tonnes per hectare to just 5, prompting the painstaking process of grafting vines onto healthy rootstocks. Compounding these issues, vineyards now contend with a growing array of pests and diseases - Antonio referred to them wryly as “more enemies.”
Sicily is amongst Italy's largest wine regions along with Tuscany, Veneto, and Piedmont and is a study in contrasts, with diverse climates, soils, and grape varieties. The island boasts 23 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC) and a single Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). The effects of climate change are acutely felt here, driving a shift toward higher-altitude vineyards to preserve acidity and temper ripening. Yet, such prime land comes at a price - Antonio noted that suitable plots on Etna now command upwards of €250,000 per hectare. While this pales in comparison to the €1 million per hectare price tag in Champagne, it underscores the growing value of Sicilian viticulture.
The Region
Interestingly the island has more hectares under vine than New Zealand and South Africa, with the main regions being:-
Etna DOC: Situated on the slopes of Europe’s active highest volcano, Mount Etna, this region benefits from volcanic soils and a high-altitude microclimate. The wines from Etna, particularly those crafted from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, have a unique mineral character and an elegant profile.
Sicilia DOC: Encompassing vineyards across the island, the Sicilia DOC designation ensures quality while allowing a broad range of wine styles and grape varieties, including the iconic Nero d’Avola and Grillo.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG: Sicily’s sole DOCG, this region is known for its harmonious red blends of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, offering bright fruit, soft tannins, and balanced acidity. Donnafugata has 4 estates here and the historical cellars in Marsala each with its own winemaker, a group chief winemaker and Antonio overseeing everything. Their estates include the following:-
Contessa Entellina Estate: Located in western Sicily, this estate is the heart of Donnafugata’s operations, where it all started. With its Mediterranean climate and diverse soils, the estate produces wines that are both expressive and age-worthy.
Etna Estate: On the northern slopes of Mount Etna, Donnafugata makes wines that reflect the volcanic soils and cooler temperatures of the region. These conditions produce grapes with a bright, fresh acidity and a distinctive minerality.
Pantelleria Island: Known for its heroic viticulture, this volcanic island is where Donnafugata cultivates Zibibbo grapes. The challenging terrain yields complex and aromatic sweet wines, such as the renowned Ben Ryé.
The Range
Donnafugata’s wines range from approachable table wines to intricate expressions of single vineyards. The portfolio spans red, white, rosé, sparkling, and sweet.
Red Wines: Made from varieties such as Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, and Frappato, Donnafugata’s reds range from structured and age-worthy to soft and aromatic. These wines reflect both the warm Mediterranean climate and the cooler, volcanic zones of Sicily.
White Wines: Grillo, Catarratto, and other indigenous white grapes form the backbone of the winery’s fresh, vibrant white wines. These wines are marked by their aromatic profiles and crisp acidity, making them ideal for pairing with a variety of dishes.
Rosé Wines: The rosés are said to be elegant and intriguing, balancing fruit-forward notes with structure. They appeal to those seeking a sophisticated alternative to traditional rosé styles.
Sparkling Wines: Using the classic method, Donnafugata produces small-batch sparkling wines known to have finesse and complexity.
Sweet Wines: The natural sweet wines of Pantelleria, especially Ben Ryé, are a highlight of Donnafugata’s range. They are rich, aromatic, and reflective of the Zibibbo grape’s versatility and the island’s unique conditions.
The Wines
Vigna di Gabri 2022This wine holds a special place in Donnafugata's history, named after Gabriella Anca Rallo, Antonio’s mother, and made from her favourite vineyard. It is a blend of five grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier, showcasing a balance of elegance and complexity. The nose opens with vibrant aromas of ripe lemons, interwoven with subtle hints of minerality that evoke the vineyard’s terroir. The Chardonnay component, barrel-fermented, adds a creamy texture and remarkable structure, while the Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier contribute aromatic lift and floral nuances. A wine of both depth and finesse, it embodies Gabriella’s pioneering spirit. This was paired with Tempura prawns with spicy cocktail sauce.
Sul Vulcano Etna Bianco 2021
Etna Bianco has a fascinating origin story. The vineyards were originally owned by a group of bankers who underestimated the challenges of viticulture. Recognising their potential, Donnafugata acquired the property, including its Carricante vines - a white grape variety indigenous to Sicily. Carricante is known for its restrained aromatic profile, which is why it’s often blended with other varietals to create a more perfumed bouquet.
Sul Vulcano Etna Bianco reveals delicate floral and citrus notes on the nose, backed by a stony minerality that speaks to the volcanic soils of Mount Etna. Antonio highlighted the wine’s ageing potential, suggesting that many will prefer older vintages for their complexity and evolved flavours. He also drew comparisons to the esteemed white wines of Alto Adige, asserting that Etna’s terroir is equally capable of producing world-class whites. This
was paired with Butternut squash risotto with brown butter and toasted pumpkin seeds.
Tancredi 2020
A bold and brooding red, Tancredi 2020 makes an immediate impression with its deep, rich colour and intense flavours. On the palate, it offers layers of dark cherry, plum, and a touch of bittersweet cocoa, creating a multifaceted experience. The wine’s structure is robust, with firm tannins and a long, slightly bitter finish. We enjoyed Butternut squash risotto with brown butter and toasted pumpkin seeds with this dish.
Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria
This iconic sweet wine, whose name translates to “Son of the Wind,” is a tribute to the extreme conditions of Pantelleria, a remote volcanic island. The Zibibbo vines (a variety of Muscat) are grown as low bush vines, hugging the ground to withstand the island’s fierce winds, which can snap young shoots with ease. The wine has aromas of apricot, orange marmalade, and wildflowers leaping from the glass. On the palate, it is thick and unctuous, with a luxurious sweetness balanced by fresh acidity. The dark marmalade and honey notes linger, creating a harmonious and satisfying finish. Despite its richness, Ben Ryé has a fresh, vibrant style that avoids cloying sweetness. It paired perfectly with a Bramley and Cox's apple pie. It is available in half-bottle formats, making it perfect for sharing - or savouring alone as a decadent treat.
