Tenuta Castelbuono
In the rolling hills of Umbria, where medieval towns overlook sun-soaked vineyards, Tenuta Castelbuono is a wonderful blend of winemaking, art, and environmental stewardship. Nestled near Montefalco, the estate is not only celebrated for its wines but also for its iconic winery, the Carapace, an architectural masterpiece designed by renowned artist Arnaldo Pomodoro.
The Carapace, with its copper exterior and tortoise-shell design, appears as though it has emerged organically from the surrounding landscape. Its oxidised surface, changing colour with time, mirrors the evolution of the land and the wine it protects. Pomodoro’s vision of longevity and shelter feels deeply intertwined with the philosophy of winemaking. Visitors approaching the estate are greeted by a striking arrow sculpture before the Carapace itself rises into view, blending seamlessly with its environment. Inside, the curved walls and vaulted ceilings create an atmosphere of quiet grandeur, inspiring awe in even the most reserved of guests.
At the heart of Tenuta Castelbuono is a commitment to sustainable viticulture. Lentils are sown as cover crops, enriching the soil naturally with nitrogen while supporting biodiversity. The estate’s water conservation efforts include advanced irrigation systems and rainwater harvesting, ensuring resources are used efficiently. Solar energy also powers part of the winery’s operations, reflecting its broader dedication to environmental care. Sustainability here is not a marketing ploy but a deeply rooted philosophy that enhances the vineyard’s natural potential.
In the vineyards, tradition meets innovation. Two years ago, a significant replanting project revitalised the estate, focusing on Sagrantino vines that thrive on the sun-drenched south-facing slopes. These vines yield wines of intense tannins and bold structure. Meanwhile, Sangiovese, planted in cooler conditions on opposing slopes, produces vibrant wines with bright acidity, red fruit flavours, and earthy undertones. Castelbuono’s meticulous understanding of terroir ensures each grape variety reaches its full potential.
Sagrantino, the hallmark of Umbria, takes centre stage here. To balance the grape’s robust tannins, thirty percent of the Sagrantino ferments in Austrian oak barrels, chosen for their softer, sweeter profile compared to French oak. This process imparts delicate cherry and spice notes, complementing the grape’s innate intensity.
The winemaking reflects a balance of tradition and modernity. Indigenous yeasts preserve the unique character of the grapes, while state-of-the-art facilities ensure precision at every stage. Barrel ageing plays a pivotal role, with the Austrian oak adding finesse to the Sagrantino and French oak enhancing complexity in other wines, creating wines that are both expressive and refined.
For visitors, Tenuta Castelbuono is as much about art as it is about wine. Guided vineyard tours reveal the estate’s sustainable practices and the nuances of its terroir, while tastings held within the Carapace offer a chance to enjoy the wines in a truly unique setting. The sweeping views of the Umbrian countryside and the pairing of wines with local specialities like pecorino cheese and cured meats elevate the experience.
The Wines
ZigguratA blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, and 15% Cabernet and Merlot, Ziggurat is an approachable introduction to Tenuta Castelbuono’s range. After maturing for one year in barrel, the wine offers a soft, accessible profile. Bright cherry notes intermingle with herbaceous undertones, supported by medium acidity and velvety tannins. It pairs exceptionally well with charcuterie, cutting through the richness of the cured meats while enhancing their flavours. This is a wine that speaks to the region's rustic charm yet remains elegant and polished.
LampanteEssentially an elevated version of Ziggurat, Lampante benefits from 18 months in barrel, with only the best barrels selected for this bottling. The result is a wine of greater depth and structure, with a more intense colour and firmer tannins. The red fruit notes remain prominent but are now accompanied by layers of tobacco, cedar, and a warming spice. This wine’s robust character makes it ideal for heartier dishes, standing up well to roasted meats or aged cheeses.
Carapace Montefalco Sagrantino 2019This 100% Sagrantino is a true expression of the grape’s power and potential. The wine bursts with concentrated flavours of ripe plums, dark cherries, and a touch of dried fig. A backbone of firm tannins and bright acidity ensures it will age gracefully for many years. Subtle notes of cinnamon and clove from the oak ageing add further complexity, making it a natural match for slow-cooked beef or wild game. Though still youthful now, this will continue to age well for many years.
Carapace Lunga Attesa 2017A flagship wine from a single vineyard, this 100% Sagrantino undergoes triple vinification in steel, wood, and terracotta, resulting in a wine of depth and character. On the nose, morello cherries, vanilla, and sweet tobacco leap from the glass, underpinned by a subtle earthiness. The palate is equally moreish, with a firm structure and a long, elegant finish. Surprisingly youthful, it has been made to complement dishes like lamb, pigeon, and wild boar, where its bold flavours can shine.
Passito 2019A jewel in the estate’s crown, this sweet wine is made from carefully dried Sagrantino grapes, concentrating their sugars and flavours. The nose reveals an intoxicating mix of dried figs, raisins, honey, and baking spices, while the palate offers luscious sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity. Notes of caramel, orange zest, and a hint of cocoa add layers of complexity, making it an exquisite partner for blue cheese or rich chocolate desserts. This Passito is decadent and wonderful, demonstrating the versatility of Sagrantino.
